Sunday, December 15, 2013

THE WAY ON THE WAY

How do you know you are on the Camino (aka The WAY)?  There are many maps and guide books and many internet resources.  The guide book I used and many other pilgrims used is titled  A Pilgrim's Guide to the  Camino de Santiago, St Jean - Roncevalles - Santiago, The Way of St. James, The ancient pilgrim path also known as Camino Frances. by John Brierley.

the 1st sign in St Jean

A road sign with the Camino Path on the right


This post appeared every100 meters on this short path


Many communities put them in the center of the sidewalk

This one is on the corner of the barn


Pay attention or you'll miss it


Handy that the bar is right there


This one is right on top of the pylon 


This was easy to miss high up on the corner of the building

muddy run off could cover this


fancy symbols on the bridge

made by pilgrims, THANK YOU!

The Camino goes through the Airport approach

A WET PATH

mind the puddle



down the rabbit hole

Just a smudge of yellow

The last sign everyone looked for in Santiago
The Way is marked with two symbols, one is the scallop shell, a symbol of St. James. The legend says that when they raised his tomb out of the water at one point it was covered in scallop shells ( as in Coquilles St Jacques). Statues of St. James usually portray him with a scallop shell on his hat and often around his neck. And the ridges in the scallop shell are to symbolize that all roads lead to Santiago,   The other symbol, a bold yellow arrow, was developed when the Camino was revitalized in the 1960's. Looking back through my photos, I have easily 75 photos of these various markers along the way. It is possible to walk the way without a guide book.  Like Dorothy following the yellow brick road, simply look for the yellow arrow or scallop shell. Here is a selection including the first and the very last one I looked for and many in between.  

Friday, December 6, 2013

ALBERGUE ( al ber gay) LIFE

One of the big things that made this Pilgrimage possible was the albergues all along the CAMINO. Albergue can be defined as a lodging or a shelter.  The albergues might be operated by a local government or a local parish or they might be a Private (entrepreneur/ family run) albergue.  In order to secure a bed (not a room) at an albergue, you must have a CREDENCIAL, an official document stating that you are on this journey as a PILGRIM.  I  received my Credencial del Peregrino from an organization called American Pilgrims on the Camino others got their credencial at the Pilgrim/tourist office at our starting point in St Jean Pied de Port. Each day when I stopped walking and wanted to obtain a bed at an albergue, I had to present my credencial which was then duly stamped with a Sello. The sellos are  prized collectables of pilgrims...and are a necessary seal to present to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago.

one large bunk room no cooking or dinner 

grandma's house did your laundry for a fee.

Albergue Facilities:

  Bunk beds  -  in one large room or several smaller rooms . There could be as many as 50 people sleeping in a room or as few as 8.  I always chose (insisted on/requested) a lower bunk.  Overall the bunk beds were in relatively good shape and not of the springy canoe shape of my childhood.  I quickly became adept at picking the bunk I could sit up in without hitting my head! 
In most places you used your own sheet and blanket.  Sometimes you were given a disposable sheet or there was a real sheet. Sometimes there were blankets available.

I usually made up my bed and then I put up my Bungee cord at the end of the bed.  There I could hang up my clothes to air out or my my just washed undies to dry or my towel to dry.

bungee cord drying line


this room had a balcony on the atrium

8 bunks were wedged into this small room

poles and sticks hanging at the door
Boots were required to be removed before entering the bunk room.  There were usually racks provided for boots and there were stands to place hiking poles and sticks. LIGHTS OUT 10 pm.  Doors usually locked at 10:30 pm. 

Toilets and showers -  Some were very modern and others were less so but they were always clean.  Sometimes there was one toilet and shower for 20 and other times there were three for 20.  Some albergues had a coin op  washer / dryer that could give you both for  5 or 6 Euros.  In others, outdoor sinks were provided for pilgrims to wash their clothes by hand.  Most provided outdoor drying racks for laundry.  

Meals at the albergue - Some had no facility for meals or a place for the preparation of a single or shared meal.  Others prided themselves on the kind of Pilgrim menu they could provide you... the 3 or sometimes 4 course meal to restore your energy for the next day of walking.  Or there were many restaurant choices available in the local community.  Most Albergues had some facility for breakfast. this meal was usually a coffee ( I chose Americano instead of con Leche since I prefer black coffee.  It was accompanied by baguette toast and butter or jam and sometimes a juice.

The albergues generally opened for guests between one and two in the afternoon.  Mandatory departure was 8AM the next morning.  Maximum stay one night.  NO EXCEPTIONS!

Cost per night: community or parish albergue 5 euros or a donativo (donation)
Private albergue 10 to 13 euros
Breakfast 2.50 - 3.50 euros
Pilgrim menu at the albergue usually 10 euros.
Restaurants also served a 10 or 12 Euro dinner too.

albergue breakfast room

albergue dining room

happy pilgrims at the end of a delicious meal!