Sunday, December 15, 2013

THE WAY ON THE WAY

How do you know you are on the Camino (aka The WAY)?  There are many maps and guide books and many internet resources.  The guide book I used and many other pilgrims used is titled  A Pilgrim's Guide to the  Camino de Santiago, St Jean - Roncevalles - Santiago, The Way of St. James, The ancient pilgrim path also known as Camino Frances. by John Brierley.

the 1st sign in St Jean

A road sign with the Camino Path on the right


This post appeared every100 meters on this short path


Many communities put them in the center of the sidewalk

This one is on the corner of the barn


Pay attention or you'll miss it


Handy that the bar is right there


This one is right on top of the pylon 


This was easy to miss high up on the corner of the building

muddy run off could cover this


fancy symbols on the bridge

made by pilgrims, THANK YOU!

The Camino goes through the Airport approach

A WET PATH

mind the puddle



down the rabbit hole

Just a smudge of yellow

The last sign everyone looked for in Santiago
The Way is marked with two symbols, one is the scallop shell, a symbol of St. James. The legend says that when they raised his tomb out of the water at one point it was covered in scallop shells ( as in Coquilles St Jacques). Statues of St. James usually portray him with a scallop shell on his hat and often around his neck. And the ridges in the scallop shell are to symbolize that all roads lead to Santiago,   The other symbol, a bold yellow arrow, was developed when the Camino was revitalized in the 1960's. Looking back through my photos, I have easily 75 photos of these various markers along the way. It is possible to walk the way without a guide book.  Like Dorothy following the yellow brick road, simply look for the yellow arrow or scallop shell. Here is a selection including the first and the very last one I looked for and many in between.  

Friday, December 6, 2013

ALBERGUE ( al ber gay) LIFE

One of the big things that made this Pilgrimage possible was the albergues all along the CAMINO. Albergue can be defined as a lodging or a shelter.  The albergues might be operated by a local government or a local parish or they might be a Private (entrepreneur/ family run) albergue.  In order to secure a bed (not a room) at an albergue, you must have a CREDENCIAL, an official document stating that you are on this journey as a PILGRIM.  I  received my Credencial del Peregrino from an organization called American Pilgrims on the Camino others got their credencial at the Pilgrim/tourist office at our starting point in St Jean Pied de Port. Each day when I stopped walking and wanted to obtain a bed at an albergue, I had to present my credencial which was then duly stamped with a Sello. The sellos are  prized collectables of pilgrims...and are a necessary seal to present to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago.

one large bunk room no cooking or dinner 

grandma's house did your laundry for a fee.

Albergue Facilities:

  Bunk beds  -  in one large room or several smaller rooms . There could be as many as 50 people sleeping in a room or as few as 8.  I always chose (insisted on/requested) a lower bunk.  Overall the bunk beds were in relatively good shape and not of the springy canoe shape of my childhood.  I quickly became adept at picking the bunk I could sit up in without hitting my head! 
In most places you used your own sheet and blanket.  Sometimes you were given a disposable sheet or there was a real sheet. Sometimes there were blankets available.

I usually made up my bed and then I put up my Bungee cord at the end of the bed.  There I could hang up my clothes to air out or my my just washed undies to dry or my towel to dry.

bungee cord drying line


this room had a balcony on the atrium

8 bunks were wedged into this small room

poles and sticks hanging at the door
Boots were required to be removed before entering the bunk room.  There were usually racks provided for boots and there were stands to place hiking poles and sticks. LIGHTS OUT 10 pm.  Doors usually locked at 10:30 pm. 

Toilets and showers -  Some were very modern and others were less so but they were always clean.  Sometimes there was one toilet and shower for 20 and other times there were three for 20.  Some albergues had a coin op  washer / dryer that could give you both for  5 or 6 Euros.  In others, outdoor sinks were provided for pilgrims to wash their clothes by hand.  Most provided outdoor drying racks for laundry.  

Meals at the albergue - Some had no facility for meals or a place for the preparation of a single or shared meal.  Others prided themselves on the kind of Pilgrim menu they could provide you... the 3 or sometimes 4 course meal to restore your energy for the next day of walking.  Or there were many restaurant choices available in the local community.  Most Albergues had some facility for breakfast. this meal was usually a coffee ( I chose Americano instead of con Leche since I prefer black coffee.  It was accompanied by baguette toast and butter or jam and sometimes a juice.

The albergues generally opened for guests between one and two in the afternoon.  Mandatory departure was 8AM the next morning.  Maximum stay one night.  NO EXCEPTIONS!

Cost per night: community or parish albergue 5 euros or a donativo (donation)
Private albergue 10 to 13 euros
Breakfast 2.50 - 3.50 euros
Pilgrim menu at the albergue usually 10 euros.
Restaurants also served a 10 or 12 Euro dinner too.

albergue breakfast room

albergue dining room

happy pilgrims at the end of a delicious meal!




 

Friday, October 25, 2013

NICE IS NICE; IT IS NICE IN NICE(FRANCE)!

Although my formal Camino has ended - and that included five days of very hard rain in Santiago, I have continued with another stage of journey.  In my quest to get away from the rain. I packed my backpack and accepted an invitation from my friend Debbie T. to join her for a short stay with her as she adventures through France. 

Debbie has creatively put together a 9 month stay in Europe.  This week I flew to Nice, followed her directions for the bus from the airport ..got off at the right stop and VOILA there were Deb and her friend Joan (also visiting this week) there to greet me.

We are staying in a sweet little apartment on the edge of the Old Port.  Wonderful balcony overlooking a busy city street with buses, cars, mopeds and trams.  The weather is perfect - mid seventies and sunny.  We have been taking in the local atmosphere non stop. Today is a three-museum-day either by tram or bus or walking. We managed to squeeze in lunch on the balcony.  But we still have one more museum to get to today.

This has been a most refreshing way to enjoy the conclusion of my first Camino.

Thanks Debbie.

Sunday, October 20, 2013

RAIN ON MY PARADE - IT DOES NOT MATTER!

Santiago, aqui! cero km!

Arrived Satiago Friday afternoon in very heavy rain; went to ¨Pilgrim Office¨and got my certificate. YAHOOO!  And then the rain came down even harder.  Still wearing Blue rain gown put back together with duck tape.  Mass on Saturday unbelievable. Church packed.  Got there early and chose the right seat. Incense burner flew over my head.  Going back for Mass today.  Rain is again poring down.  All is well with me and thinking of all of you .  Heading to Nice France to visit adventure friend Debbie for a couple of days then train to Brussels and then back to US.   Will write more details when computer connection is better.

Buen Camino!

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

RAIN..AND MORE RAIN

Just a quick post to say I am 44 km from Santiago.  I had 3 days of perfect walking weather - overcast not too warm and beautiful scenery.  And I have just walked through two days of heavy pouring rain.  My blue rain gown is in shreds.  I´ve given up the idea of the tiara.  But my spirits are high.  I will arrive on Friday and plan to stay 3 nights in Santiago.  I will give up my bunk bed status for a nice hotel.  For early risers you might catch me at the catherdral for Pilgrim Mass on Saturday and Sunday - noon Santiago time 6 A M east coast time.  The cathedral web site has a live cam of the cathedral interior.  More After I get to Santiago.

BUEN CAMINO!

Saturday, October 12, 2013

PERFECT DAYS FOR WALKING

Coming into Sarria 120 Kilometers to Santiago

The last week of walking has been perfect.  We might have rain tomorrow, but I have planned a short day on the road .  Hope to do some sightseeing in Sarria. 

A little Camino story... My mother always told me and Sister Fanchon told us as she shook her finger at us during Freshman Orientation ...NEVER ACCEPT RIDES FROM STRANGERS!

When I got to Ponferrada I lost my bearings in the Plaza Major.  I walked for some time in the wrong direction.  I finally saw a gentleman walking toward me and asked him for directions.  He knew where I wanted to go.  He started to give me directions and then decided that it was too difficult to explain to me.  He said come on I´ll take you in my car.  I hesitated and then went with him to his car.  He very quickly drove me to my location and carried my backpack inside.  All along this route the pilgrims are treated as special.  The people of Spain are wonderful and welcoming.


Looking down on the highway from a high pass on the Camino
Today's hill climb

Canal /aquaduct system developed by the Romans

I can´t believe that I have been sleeping in a bunk bed almost every night. I can´t believe I can repack my bag every morning in the dark.  I can´t believe I am eating more bread than I have ever had  and is it ever good.  It is a Buen Camino

Ponferrada is most famous for the Knights Templar.  There original fortification dominates the entrance to the City.  However it was "remodeled", re-designed and just built anew on the same site at later times in the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries.  It reaffirms the old mantra Location,Location, Location.  See for yourself





 

Tuesday, October 8, 2013

LET THE SUN SHINE

Ponferrada 226 km to Santiago

A quick POST CARD  To say the sun is shining and may do so for one more day.  I did a slow paced 16 km to Astorga.  About 3/4 of the way there I came to David and Andre´´s Snack stand.





 It was a  cart about 4x8x10 and it was loaded with little treats such as PEANUT BUTTER - my favorite- cakes, cookies, teas and coffee and fruit.  The message was don´t litter, do recycle, be kind to the Camino.  None of the items were for sale - if you wanted something take it.  If you wanted to leave a donation you could. There was a real Camino buzz about the place.  Walked with a gentleman from BC, Canada and a mother daughter team from Wisconson/Idaho.



Notice how fine the weather is in these pictures.

 A few puddles from yesterday's rain are evident.









Reached Astorga in time to get an afternoon tour of the Gaude Palace and the Cathedral.  Had a nice pilgrim dinner with a soup of potatoes, octopus and shrimp followed by a Veal chop
with FF and rice pudding.
Had hoped to go to Mass at the Cathedral, but it was only at noon.
Sunday walk began at 7:45  and it was still dark, but plenty of city street lights.  It was another beautiful day and I walked a good pace for 23 km to Rabinal del Camino.  Just as I got to the edge of the Village I could hear singing. Ahead of me was the local church and Mass had just begun at 12:30.  I stepped in and stayed for the service in the simple chapel.  When it was over all the parishioners went to the front of the church  they gathered up flags and banners and a Statue called Our Lady of the Pilar.  It was her feast day and the ladies of the parish carried the statue on a litter.  We marched through town to another nearly abandoned chapel along the way singing hymns and  praying. Traffic stopped while this took place.

Monday - another perfect day Walking to the highest point on the Camino 1500 meters - 4500 feet plus a little more. The actual climb up was only 300 meters over 10 km while the decent was 900 meters  over about 8 km.  I took two days to do the downhill portion.

Tuesday - finished the downhill today with a little added on.  Left the Village of Acebo at 8am still very dark.  Met a group of pilgrims looking for the path. 2 Austrian women, a South African woman and two Korean men.  We walked for 45 minutes before one of the group said we are not in the right place.  By this time it was light. and we were giddy with a sense of adventure wandering around on goat paths and getting our bearings.  The weather and scenery were perfect.  We all enjoyed this opportunity to be together and enjoy the beauty around us.  About a half an hour later we found a road and a yellow arrow pointing us to the Camino.  Tomorrow I´m off to Villafranca Del Bierzo  23km.  and then shorter days with steep climbs.