NICE IS NICE; IT IS NICE IN NICE(FRANCE)!

Although my formal Camino has ended - and that included five days of very hard rain in Santiago, I have continued with another stage of journey.  In my quest to get away from the rain. I packed my backpack and accepted an invitation from my friend Debbie T. to join her for a short stay with her as she adventures through France. 

Debbie has creatively put together a 9 month stay in Europe.  This week I flew to Nice, followed her directions for the bus from the airport ..got off at the right stop and VOILA there were Deb and her friend Joan (also visiting this week) there to greet me.

We are staying in a sweet little apartment on the edge of the Old Port.  Wonderful balcony overlooking a busy city street with buses, cars, mopeds and trams.  The weather is perfect - mid seventies and sunny.  We have been taking in the local atmosphere non stop. Today is a three-museum-day either by tram or bus or walking. We managed to squeeze in lunch on the balcony.  But we still have one more museum to get to today.

This has been a most refreshing way to enjoy the conclusion of my first Camino.

Thanks Debbie.

RAIN ON MY PARADE - IT DOES NOT MATTER!

Santiago, aqui! cero km!

Arrived Satiago Friday afternoon in very heavy rain; went to ¨Pilgrim Office¨and got my certificate. YAHOOO!  And then the rain came down even harder.  Still wearing Blue rain gown put back together with duck tape.  Mass on Saturday unbelievable. Church packed.  Got there early and chose the right seat. Incense burner flew over my head.  Going back for Mass today.  Rain is again poring down.  All is well with me and thinking of all of you .  Heading to Nice France to visit adventure friend Debbie for a couple of days then train to Brussels and then back to US.   Will write more details when computer connection is better.

Buen Camino!

RAIN..AND MORE RAIN

Just a quick post to say I am 44 km from Santiago.  I had 3 days of perfect walking weather - overcast not too warm and beautiful scenery.  And I have just walked through two days of heavy pouring rain.  My blue rain gown is in shreds.  I´ve given up the idea of the tiara.  But my spirits are high.  I will arrive on Friday and plan to stay 3 nights in Santiago.  I will give up my bunk bed status for a nice hotel.  For early risers you might catch me at the catherdral for Pilgrim Mass on Saturday and Sunday - noon Santiago time 6 A M east coast time.  The cathedral web site has a live cam of the cathedral interior.  More After I get to Santiago.

BUEN CAMINO!

PERFECT DAYS FOR WALKING

Coming into Sarria 120 Kilometers to Santiago

The last week of walking has been perfect.  We might have rain tomorrow, but I have planned a short day on the road .  Hope to do some sightseeing in Sarria. 

A little Camino story... My mother always told me and Sister Fanchon told us as she shook her finger at us during Freshman Orientation ...NEVER ACCEPT RIDES FROM STRANGERS!

When I got to Ponferrada I lost my bearings in the Plaza Major.  I walked for some time in the wrong direction.  I finally saw a gentleman walking toward me and asked him for directions.  He knew where I wanted to go.  He started to give me directions and then decided that it was too difficult to explain to me.  He said come on I´ll take you in my car.  I hesitated and then went with him to his car.  He very quickly drove me to my location and carried my backpack inside.  All along this route the pilgrims are treated as special.  The people of Spain are wonderful and welcoming.

Looking down on the highway from a high pass on the Camino

Today's hill climb

Canal /aquaduct system developed by the Romans

I can´t believe that I have been sleeping in a bunk bed almost every night. I can´t believe I can repack my bag every morning in the dark.  I can´t believe I am eating more bread than I have ever had  and is it ever good.  It is a Buen Camino

Ponferrada is most famous for the Knights Templar.  There original fortification dominates the entrance to the City.  However it was "remodeled", re-designed and just built anew on the same site at later times in the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries.  It reaffirms the old mantra Location,Location, Location.  See for yourself

 

LET THE SUN SHINE

Ponferrada 226 km to Santiago

A quick POST CARD  To say the sun is shining and may do so for one more day.  I did a slow paced 16 km to Astorga.  About 3/4 of the way there I came to David and Andre´´s Snack stand.

 It was a  cart about 4x8x10 and it was loaded with little treats such as PEANUT BUTTER - my favorite- cakes, cookies, teas and coffee and fruit.  The message was don´t litter, do recycle, be kind to the Camino.  None of the items were for sale - if you wanted something take it.  If you wanted to leave a donation you could. There was a real Camino buzz about the place.  Walked with a gentleman from BC, Canada and a mother daughter team from Wisconson/Idaho.



Notice how fine the weather is in these pictures.

 A few puddles from yesterday's rain are evident.









Reached Astorga in time to get an afternoon tour of the Gaude Palace and the Cathedral.  Had a nice pilgrim dinner with a soup of potatoes, octopus and shrimp followed by a Veal chop
with FF and rice pudding.
Had hoped to go to Mass at the Cathedral, but it was only at noon.
Sunday walk began at 7:45  and it was still dark, but plenty of city street lights.  It was another beautiful day and I walked a good pace for 23 km to Rabinal del Camino.  Just as I got to the edge of the Village I could hear singing. Ahead of me was the local church and Mass had just begun at 12:30.  I stepped in and stayed for the service in the simple chapel.  When it was over all the parishioners went to the front of the church  they gathered up flags and banners and a Statue called Our Lady of the Pilar.  It was her feast day and the ladies of the parish carried the statue on a litter.  We marched through town to another nearly abandoned chapel along the way singing hymns and  praying. Traffic stopped while this took place.

Monday - another perfect day Walking to the highest point on the Camino 1500 meters - 4500 feet plus a little more. The actual climb up was only 300 meters over 10 km while the decent was 900 meters  over about 8 km.  I took two days to do the downhill portion.

Tuesday - finished the downhill today with a little added on.  Left the Village of Acebo at 8am still very dark.  Met a group of pilgrims looking for the path. 2 Austrian women, a South African woman and two Korean men.  We walked for 45 minutes before one of the group said we are not in the right place.  By this time it was light. and we were giddy with a sense of adventure wandering around on goat paths and getting our bearings.  The weather and scenery were perfect.  We all enjoyed this opportunity to be together and enjoy the beauty around us.  About a half an hour later we found a road and a yellow arrow pointing us to the Camino.  Tomorrow I´m off to Villafranca Del Bierzo  23km.  and then shorter days with steep climbs.

SINGING IN THE RAIN

Before I left Leon, I reaffirmed my commitment to continue my journey to walk to Santiago. I was not the first or last pilgrim.  You can see my new resolve at this pilgrim statue.

Barrio Humedo

 After my last post while still in Leon, I found a local food festival being held in the Plaza Mayor.  It was sponsored by the bars and taverns in the Barrio Humedo.  Tastes of their specialty bar foods were available.

 I had a hearty garlic soup - sopa de ajo - described by the elderly couple I dined with as  "pico."

Ceno de Leon a paper thin sliced dry beef. And the Morcilla con queso a black pudding cooked a little soupy and mixed with cheese.  All were served with lots of bread and no vegetables.

I was well fortified for my next day of walking.

The  Walking was gentle through the city with 24 km on tap for the day. After an hour and a half the rain started and the wind too.  But I was psychologically prepared for it.  I put on my rain gear and soldiered on . The path was mostly clay.

 The more I walked the heavier my feet got as my boots hung on to large clods of clay. The lower half of my green trousers were yellow from the clay.  My rain gear is a bright blue one piece with a train in the back to be able to cover me and back pack.  But, short person that I am it is more like a train on a ball gown.  With a tiara I could be the rain queen of the camino. About a half hour before I reached my destination the rain stopped.  The wind continued and blew my gear dry.

The Albergue was special.  Served a vegetarian dinner that include a real salad, a soup, vegetarian paella and a homemade crepe with fruit. Including breakfast the whole stay cost 21 Euros.

Today I did a short walk, 16 km. In the sun!  And will do the same tomorrow as I approach hills.
Tomorrow I will be in Astorga . 264 km to Santiago.

On Sunday I plan a 23 Km walk to Rabanal del Camino.And then the walk will be over mountains again.  I plan to go slowly - no more that 20km day.

MELTED IN THE RAIN

Leon 317 km to Santiago

open door at a village church

fountain at Plaza Mayor

a garden in a rural village

I had several days of wonderful walking.  Perhaps the most notable  Village was Santo Domingo de Calzada.  Known as Saint Dominic of the Road, he did much to build roads for the pilgrims in the 11th Century.  And we are reaping the benefit today.  There are many stories about this community.  Many concern Chickens.  At the beginning of Mass on Sunday the cock spent a lot of time crowing.  A cock and a hen are kept right in the church.  The symbol of the town is a chicken , it is seen in pastry, candy, pottery and more. 

On Monday I had a brisk walk with Martha from Barcelona.  She literally does the Camino a day or two at a time.  She drives her car to where she last stopped  parks and walks for  a day or two and then takes the bus back to her car.  She works for a bank and says that they have had many days off with no pay so she walks the camino on those days.

My room with private bath - what a treat!

On Monday night I stayed at a Casa Rural.  A village home offering bed, dinner and breakfast.  I chose this one because of its name  ENCANTADA.  It is my favorite Spanish word.  It was wonderful.  Ana welcomed us with open arms.  The other guests were a French couple and a Canadian couple from Saskatchewan.  Our rooms were beautiful, and the dinner was tastey and  filling.  

the rain is coming!

the blue rain gown

On Tuesday I was well fortified for a day of walking. I did well, BUT the rain started.  I put on my rain gear, but the wind came with it. You know the song...Oklahoma where the waving wheat sure smells sweet when the wind come right behind the rain...This was the exact description, but at 30 miles an hour. Not the gentle soft rain I experienced in Ireland.  I completed my walking goal, picked up my backpack at the albergue and caught the bus for Burgos.  And the rain came down harder.  In an effort to get ahead of or away from the rain I took the bus from Burgos to Leon.  I have reset my schedule and my intention and it is walking from here on in.    I did have time to see the beautiful  Cathedral and Square in Burgos.  Today I spent a full day in  Leon seeing the sights and also the MUSAC, Museum of contemporary art. 

There is still a forecast for rain for the next 3 days, but I hope it is wrong.

2 new friends

 lunch in burgos with new friend

Santa Maria gate Burgos

Cathedral entrance

More new friends ... When I got off the bus in Burgos there were 3 women hovering near me.  They asked what I was going to do, I said go on to Leon.  In unison they said they were going with me. They thought I knew what I was doing!  So we four bought bus tickets to Leon.  Then we found a place for lunch.  At lunch I found out that my new friends were a Finnish women who spoke some English and her two friends who spoke only Russian. We all toured the cathedral at Burgos together.  I think their individual packs are each 3 X´s the size of mine and of course wet.  Once we got on the bus to Leon I met Aussie friends Mother and daughter, Margaret and Anna whom I met in Zubiri on day 3 of the journey.

So here is my first bit of enlightenment from my journey.  I love my family and friends.  They are the best.      I´¨m so happy that you are all on my side and cheering me on.  How lucky am I! How grateful am I!

I love you all! 

 Mel

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